Hoja santa ceviche at Contramar’s hidden sister restaurant, crab gorditas at a homey breakfast spot in the city center, garlic-ginger chile relleno at a late-night Mexican Chinese hangout, and more of CDMX’s best meals
The first thing any visitor to the Mexican capital will take in — probably while staring out the window in awe as their airplane descends over the intense, urbanity-on-steroids sprawl — is the sheer size of this town, 573 square miles in total. It’s densely populated and patchworked with distinct neighborhoods, each with its own culinary identity. It would take several lifetimes to get to know all of the street stands, holes in the wall, neighborhood favorites, and high-end destinations in this city.
Yet this list — 38 restaurants, dishes, and culinary experiences that define Mexico City’s gastronomic identity — should offer a comprehensive starting point for any visitor. It includes the obvious and the overexposed; it also includes hidden gems. It covers longtime buzzing neighborhoods like Roma and Condesa, as well as newer destination districts like San Miguel Chapultepec and Juarez. There are tacos, tortas, tasting menus, and tamales. There are enough sweets to satisfy the most dedicated concha enthusiast and some old-school breakfasts for the nostalgists. Whatever the type of place, it provides standout food and a taste of something visitors can’t get back home.
Updated, July 2023:
After an economic extravaganza in 2022, when digital nomads and tourists flooded into Mexico City, activity in the capital has begun to slow. Though the tourism industry is still buzzing as summer comes on, the peso has grown stronger against the dollar, while layoffs among U.S. companies and changes in remote work policies have punctured the digital nomad community. The chill has allowed the culinary scene to focus on local, smaller scale projects, including self-funded neighborhood restaurants like Pargot and Paradero Conocido. At the same time, CDMX continues its growing romance with wine bars like Niv and seafood specialists like Caracol de Mar and Ostreria 109. Locals are also flocking to Canton Mexicali, a great Chinese Mexican eatery open late enough to go toe to toe with the city’s taco stands for midnight diner traffic. More generally, midweek has become the new weekend, with tables packed long before Friday. Restaurants are also filling their social calendars with pop-ups, takeovers, and special fixed menus, so check in advance on social media before showing up for a meal.
We update this list quarterly to make sure it reflects the ever-changing Mexico City dining scene.
Natalia de la Rosa is a Mexican food writer, mezcal collector, and culinary guide based in Mexico City.
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