From a sage galette with labneh at a modern Israeli restaurant, to lovage sorbet with meringue and cucumber ribbons at a railroad-themed restaurant, here’s where to eat in the French capital
Paris has reclaimed its status as one of the world’s favorite cities to eat. The French capital is bustling with a brilliant constellation of restaurants these days, including a bevy of openings that show off how deliciously cosmopolitan it’s become: Menkicchi is maybe the best ramen shop in town, young Franco-Malian chef Mory Sacko cooks stunningly original Franco-African-Japanese dishes at MoSuke, and Korean-born chef Sukwon Yong shows off the growing influence of Asia on contemporary French cooking at the reboot of Le Bistrot Flaubert. Plus there’s an inventive and diverse array of casual dining options, like the affordable Café du Coin, excellent Montmartre bistro Le Maquis, and Parcelles, an outstanding bistrot a vins in the Marais. There’s also been a renaissance of Paris’s long-established gastronomic landscape, with traditional bistros, brasseries, and stylish restaurants serving classic French cooking made famous by chef Auguste Escoffier.
Updated, July 2022:
“Carpe diem” is the mantra in Paris right now. After months of lockdowns that forced everyone to cook for themselves, diners can keenly appreciate talented chefs like Jonathan Schweitzer at the Café des Deux Gares, a wonderfully quirky bistro in a hotel near the Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, which replaces Le Servan on this list. Schweitzer’s cooking catches the zeitgeist of the city — beautifully sourced, healthy, and intelligently imagined dishes — and the restaurant is strategically located and easy on the wallet. Israeli chef Granit Assaf’s restaurant Shabour is also ushered off the stage to make way for Tekes, his latest table, which just may be the restaurant that takes vegetarian food mainstream in Paris; its succulent modern Israeli menu skips meat and fish.
Alexander Lobrano is a Paris restaurant expert and author of Hungry for Paris, Hungry for France, and his gastronomic coming-of-age story My Place at the Table. He blogs about restaurants and writes often for the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Saveur, and other publications.
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